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Peak Mountain 3

The Coug

FA Matt Samet, Ted Lanzano, Ed McEwan
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is a long pitch (full 30 meters; 60-meter rope mandatory -- and tie a knot in the end) right of

Vishnu

, on the upper south face of Krishna Spire, next to Berlin Wall. Belay from the top of the gully between the two walls.

Scramble about 30 feet to a ledge below a small grey face. Clip two bolts here, step right, chase two bolts up the right side of a nice arete, then join the crack Krishna Orange for 20 feet (thin-fingers and hand-sized gear here; I used a Metolius #1 TCU and a gold Camalot, and believe you me, you do want the gear or it will be a huuuuge runout). Alternately, you could just start up on the big ledge, on Krishna Orange, and link into the last 5 bolts on The Coug; bring gear for the lower crack if you do so.

Step left again onto a small perch, and then climb five bolts up the obtuse, gently overhanging corner above, making long reaches to good holds. Finish on a clean slab with a great, commanding position and first-class views of Lower Dream Canyon. Congrats: you've now Slain the Coug.

Location

20 feet right of

Vishnu

but with a lower start from the top of the gully.

Protection

9 bolts plus finger and hand-sized gear, to double-bolt anchors. 60-meter rope mandatory.