- Edit (TBD)
Description
Climb the farthest right (west) side of the Hanging Slab on clean rock crossing both the Steinfell Route and the Cavity Chimney Route en route to easier slab above. I wouldn't be surprised if this had been done before (Brian?) but it seemed largely distinct from the Steinfell Route (Direct and Original). Other nearby routes in the Granite Guide, Ruckman Guide and the original Wasatch Climbs books don't seem to match. Having wandered around on the Steinfell Route I thought this was mostly distinct.
PM me if I missed something and I'll update the information (or delete).
We revisited this recently after first climbing it a decade ago and found it to be decent quality on good rock. The recent addition of the Cavity Chimney Route to MP reminded me to post this.
Reach the right edge of the slab from near the lowest point of the Hanging Slab (most west side) - but inside the 'cut-out'. Climb out of the cut-out and reach a stance on the right edge of the slab (the start of a psuedo-arete). Or, start on the lowest, right (west) edge of the Hanging Slab and climb directly up to this stance. From this stance, climb this right edge, using the edge of the slab (hand bumps) and a vegetated crack straight up to where Cavity Chimney crests the slab. Cross Cavity Chimney (we used a Big Bro) and run it out to the top on easier, but runout terrain. Belay slightly above the standard-bushy-ledge in cracks that accept mid-size cams. Walk off left (east). We spent a bunch of time cleaning the cracks, but alas, they have refilled.
Location
The farthest right margin of the Hanging Slab. Start at either the lowest point of the western margin of the slab or slightly inside the 'cut-out' where edges make it possible to reach the arete.
Protection
Standard LCC rack. Save some hand size pieces for the belay. Bring a Big Bro if you finally need a place to use it (not required)
Routes in Allen's Ridge Area
- 3Hanging Slab Right - Arete5.9Trad