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Peak Mountain 3

Pollemor

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Description

Pollemor is a reasonable route worth climbing. If it were climbed/cleaned a bit more, it could reach it's potential as a solid 2-star route. In its present state (a bit lichenous in places), it is a 1-2 star route, I suppose.

Locate the starting chimney, which is NOT the squeeze chimney a few feet right of the initial bolts on

[[114168801

]]. About 10 meters further left, there is a steep but juggy twister of a chimney that ascends the left side of an improbable looking tower. Head up that system (5.4 no pro and juggy) onto the top of the tower, and continue right. You will intercept an incut horizontal there and get good protection  Head right on a mellow and secure hand traverse (harder if you are shorter than 5'3") and around a bulge. This is about 2 meters below the single bolt (red hanger) where

Grip

crosses in the opposite direction. Once across that ledge, head up and right on a series of ledges until you reach a final one with good protection and a good stance. Build a belay & bring your partner up here to avoid rope drag on the next pitch (Stoppers and cams to 1.75").

The next pitch wanders up and onward through a series of intermittent shallow cracks. There is generally good gear, but take it when it comes or risk not having it when you want it. Towards the top of the pitch, head up and right to reach the chain anchors on The Mushroom. Belay here, and rap 60' then 90' to the ground from chain anchors.

Location

A little ways left of the first 4 bolts on

Grip

, there is an oddly shaped tower of rock leaning against the wall. On the left side of this lies the beginnings of Pollemor.  Scramble and twist up into the easy 5th Class chimney there to get on top of the funky tower, then work your way up and right to the set of grassy ledges, to the right of the huge, right-facing corner/chimney above the

Grip

bolts. The 2nd pitch of Pollemor continues up a set of intermittent cracks on mostly good gear, above on the right hand wall.

Protection

A set of stoppers and a set of cams to 3" with some doubles in the thin hands range.