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Peak Mountain 3

No Brainer

FA EFR, JSt,John Hayes, '12
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

70M ROPE REQUIRED. This route has a ton of varied climbing. Face climbing, aretes, dihedrals, laybacks, stems, even a hand jam or two and a short section of chimney. This route has two sets of anchors so you can get off with one 70M rope by doing two rappels. We did this climb as one long pitch. We skipped the first bolt and used a long runner at the first anchors and also on some of the bolts above the ledge above the chimney to reduce the rope drag. Even so the rope gets pretty heavy. Now and then the rock is less than ideal but the quality of the climbing on the rest of the route outweighs these short sections. Since it is new I would encourage others in the area not to climb or leave gear to the right of the start to this climb.

Location

This route is just right of Master Blaster and works up a less than beautiful slab to a corner. From there a short crack leads up and right to the arete which eventually leads to the main corner system up the cliff.

Protection

Bolt. 29 draws for the entire route 16 for the first half.