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Peak Mountain 3

Slot Machine

FA Richard Wright
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Description

Start with

People's Choice

and climb the first two pitches to the belay below the dihedral. Slot Machine is a newly bolted line (since Rolofson's print of CCC) that takes the overhanging face just right of the dihedral. First, before starting the route, watch out for a DEATH block that sits right at the start--this cube of granite is ready to blow. Some powerful moves with slopey to crimpy holds leads to a steep mantel with tricky positioning. After this crux, the angle eases up for the last three bolts to the chains. Fun, pumpy route with great exposure, but with all the noise of the cars and river right below you, it's hard to hear your belayer. Richard Wright: the c is for the mantle move if you're short.

Protection

8 bolts to a double chain. A 50m rope is adequate to rap back to the belay, then once more to a sloping ledge, which can be downclimbed.