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Peak Mountain 3

Hypothermia

FA Tim Beaman, Scott Woodruff, Dan Hare, 1975
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UPDATED 

Description

I really liked this route. It is steep and strenuous with really good moves and good gear. Some of the rock is suspect and certainly dirty. I had three stars worth of fun, but I'm afraid this one may be destined to obscurity. The hike is long, and the climb is short. The first 15 feet have some loose stuff, but you can avoid it. The crux starts at a little overhang where you can reach up and place bomber nuts in the finger crack above. As you undercling the hollow and fractured flake, keep in mind this whole section might fall off with you on it. Perfect finger locks lead to a wide section. Follow the crack right. A #5 is nice to have here, but you'd be fine with a #4, or you might live with just a #3. When the crack jogs back left there is a giant block that may fall out and kill your belayer, just YARD on it since it's a good "jug". Head up and left (#0.75 or #1 Camalot). You might as well belay here @ a tree since it's really comfy, and you can watch the 2nd. There is a short second pitch (~20 feet) that could be linked with the first. A couple tricky moves but mostly perfect hand jams. At the top of this there is another tree. Rap from here or hike up around the Potato Chip and do that, too. (That way you can justify that #5 you have with you).

Location

Hypothermia is on the South East facing wall of the buttress below the Potato Chip. The easiest way to find it is to hike up the Redgarden wall trail. When you see the walk off, continue for a couple hundred feet along the base until you see the crack.

Protection

Standard rack to #4 (optional #5), Tree with slings to rap.