For Whom the Bells Toll

After the 5 minute traverse over from the base of Kinabalu on East Waterfall Dome, start climbing up the low angle slabs and aretes. This enjoyable romp in Bells Canyon was traditionally equipped. It is well protected without ever presenting very difficult climbing and generally follows a straight forward line of ascent as well as descent.

Pitch #1: Climb the slab passing a fixed piton to a two-bolt belay. 5.5, 50m.

Pitch #2: Climb straight up and over a small roof past a fixed piton and continue up a short right facing dihedral. More fun slab moves brings the climber past a new glue in rappel station (replacing the fallen tree...whoops:)) and a nice ledge just above it. 5.5, 35m.

Pitch #3: Continue up delightful patina on great rock. Pass a two-bolt rappel station and follow 6 more bolts to a ledge and two-bolt belay. 5.6, 50m.

Pitch #4: Go straight up past one bolt on the slab to a steep massive boulder protected by two bolts. Climb up the wondrous knobby jugs, turn the corner, and reach the two-bolt belay in short order. 5.7, 35m.

Pitch #5: A fun final pitch climbs chicken heads and stretch across a gap to more knobs and a mantle finale onto a table top two-bolt belay party summit. 5.5, 20m.

Great 360 degree views into Little Cottonwood Canyon, into the Salt Lake Valley, and of course down to the waterfall in Bells Canyon.

Rappel 7 times easily down the route with one 80m rope. It seems a 70m is adequate for some and insufficient for others. Some of the raps are rope stretchers, so tie knots in the ends of your ropes and take care.

Best access seems to be the approach as for the route Kinabalu on East Waterfall Dome. Continue 20m up past the base of that route and find a cleared trail back west into the gully separating the two domes.

After crossing the once rickety (now nicely fortified) bridge continue up the ever fainter trail for about 150m or so until coming to a rock with a piton. If you find this piton, you should see sling markers on trees and the approach IS NOT as horrific of a bushwhack as noted by several others:). At the piton, this is where the trail veers off left (North) on an even fainter trail directly to the base of Waterfall Dome. From the start of the route Kinabalu, continue traversing west to the start of For Whom The Bells Toll.

This route ascends the far right (east) side of Waterfall Dome and is characterized by a plethora of Wasatch granite chickenheads and knobs. A small cairn marks the beginning of the route and the rope up area.

QDs and perhaps a small assortment of Camalots from C3 - .75. For most, QDs are enough. A few long slings. One 80m rope works best and is recommended.