No Climb for Old Men

No Climb for Old Men climbs the south arete of the Merlon in 12 pitches. A low crux traverses right through a steep headwall. The main crux comes in the mid portion of the climb where the arete becomes blank. Here tricky climbing leads up the left side of the arete with thoughtful pro. At the huge ledge just below the summit we traversed left one pitch before topping out but in hindsight there is probably a dihedral heading more directly to the summit from the right side of the ledge.

Descent: Rappel and down climb the east ridge or rappel Super Fortress.

South arete of the Merlon.

Nuts and cams to 3"