- Edit (TBD)
Description
This is a bit of a step up in difficulty from the neighboring routes but a fun challenge regardless - the crux is perma-drawed, so don't be scared to give it an attempt.
Beta-free description:
mantel up the start to easy slab climbing below the roof (be careful for loose and/or rotten rock in this band as it cleans up). Hit two permadraws on the roof, and pull over, continuing up 3 more easy bulges to the anchor.
Beta-full description:
start off the ground with a tricky mantel and a first clip, and work up easy slab. Get to the great jug, clip your first permadraw, say your Hail Marys, and get ready for the business. For full value, catch some small crimps in the corner, and make some powerful moves to the good rail where you can catch the second and final permadraw, though if you go to the flake on the left, it's probably slightly easier. Move up to a slightly sloping, flat ledge. Think light thoughts, put on your angel wings, and make the strenuous crux move to the jug rail - you'll understand how this route got its name. Continue on good holds and mantels to the anchor - consider some alpine draws for the 7th and 8th bolts (the next two once you're established above the crux).
Location
It is 15 feet left of
Archangel
- its permadraws are the obvious giveaway.
Protection
8 bolts + 2 permadraws to the 2 bolt anchor with hooks.
Routes in The Pearly Gates
- 2Right Hand Of God5.11cSport