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MapDescription
2 pitch route that starts on the left side of the Nose.
Pitch 1: 5.7 Challenging start to gain the dike. Ascend small dike past bolts to friction slab above. Threaded runner through pocket can be useful here.
Pitch 2: 5.9 Climb vertical dike above belay. Cruxy start off the belay so clip the bolt before making the moves. After the steep dike climb the lichen covered friction slab on the rounded arete to chain anchors overhanging the corridor to the left.
Location
At nearly the lowest part of the east formation on Gamma look for a bolted steep dike just to the left of the hand to fist crack that marks the start of Crystal Seeker.
Protection
Mostly bolted, but gear and slung horns can be used to protect the runouts. Bolted anchors.
Routes in Gamma
- 2Celebration Song5.9Trad