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Peak Mountain 3

Chinle Spire (N. Face)

FA Fred Beckey, Eric Bjornstad
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is a very cool and skinny spire in a very wonderful place. The climbing is a bit dicey. Pitch one;....climb up a slanting ramp with a crack . (5.9) Pitch 2; Climb 5.6 face and hop on a bolt ladder of various "things" bounded into drilled holes;...in the holes are bolts, pitons, and various hardware devices;....a hodgepodge of metal.There is a short crack section in this pitch;...then back to the bolts. Pitch 3; a whole pitch of (You guessed it...) more bolts. Pitch 4 starts with a 5.8 crack, which soon is A1, then a couple of bolts, then a section of really dicey soft/rotten rock ; this be the A4 section, I believe. The rappell from the summit was from a 6 mm cord rapped around the summit, backed up by a piton hammered into a hole......(Best bring some extra rope or a really really long sling to back this up. Rap from top to 3....three to 1, and one to ground.

Location

This is on the N. end of a formation W. of Round Rock...you can't miss it......you can see it for miles. At one point, it's skinnier in it's middle, than at the summit.....it's a trip.

Protection

Some cams, a few pins, and a ton of quick draws, tie offs, slings.