Brokeback Mountain

A proud climb on Coconino Sandstone up an imposing dihedral way back in a side canyon of Oak Creek. Four pitches of physical, mostly wide climbing with good protection.

Pitch 1: Climbing the long corner system. Hands to squeeze chimney. 5.10+ (150 Ft.) Pitch 2: Climb your way up a chimney stem box to a roof capped by an imposing table size plate. Pull the roof on the right, clip a bolt, and do a short fingers layback to the anchor. 5.11 (120 Ft.) Pitch 3: Climb up to a left facing ringlock corner. Climb this pumpy section up and left to a large ledge. 5.11 (80 Ft.) Pitch 4: There are 3 obvious crack systems from this belay. Currently the only established finish is the left most and easiest looking crack system. 5.9 (70 Ft.)

Rappel the route with two ropes or an 80 meter rope. The top 3 rappels require only one rope, but the final rappel requires two.

Located in Oak Creek Canyon across from the Waterfall. This is the canyon way back and right from the Encinoso Picnic area. This climb is on the large Coconino wall way right of the Bear Spire. The approach to this climb begins on the Wilson Mt. North Trail. Hike 15-20 minutes and before the trails heads up and left go right into a brush filled drainage. Follow the rocky vegetated drainage till it terminates. Bushwhacking required. Approach is roughly an hour. Extra caution is neccesary for the final steep section before the belay ledge. It is best to traverse in on a sandy ledge from the left.

One each: 0.4 and 0.5, and a 5.0 Two each: 1.0 to 4.0 Three each: 0.75 Lots of slings