Gardner Buttress Direct

Gardner Buttress Direct is technically on stockade peak. It is a consolidated route with great exposure, an alpine-like feel, and one of the shortest (downhill) approaches in the beartooths. It has great potential and could easily become a frequented beartooth classic for new and experienced climbers alike.

The first pitch is a full 60 meters. The crux of the route, one 5.8 move, is at 30 meters and is well protected by a #1 c3. Belay when the rope runs out at the obvious flat spot in the middle of the wall. The second pitch is also a full 60 meters and follows the right side of the obvious arête. From the bottom, it looks unprotectable. Keep calm and continue climbing. No moves are harder than 5.7 and the gear, though sparse, is just enough to keep a new leader comfortable. Enjoy the exposure and consolidated rock. Climb the easy last step and belay from the very top by slinging a large boulder.

To descend: Walk off the top and enjoy the 10-minute stroll back to the car.

Park near the “bear’s tooth” sign a half mile north of the summit parking lot of the beartooth pass on the Wyoming side.

Walk east from the parking turnout to the top of the gardner headwall. Descend the Gardner headwall to the base of the obvious consolidated sky-lined arête skier’s right of the Headwall. An ice axe may make the descent more comfortable and may be necessary early in the season or early in the morning. Gear up on the grassy ledge on the right side of the buttress under the smaller blocky chimney.

Cams 0 c3 to 4 c4

Full set of stoppers

60 meter rope