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Peak Mountain 3

Batman

FA Darren Knezek
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Got endurance?

Batman

is a juggy, severely-overhanging pump fest.

Scramble up the dark tillite to a slightly columnar section with a number of juggy protrusions on the right. Clip the first two bolts (in the tillite) long and get on top of the last of the tillite.

The third bolt is in the lighter quartzite, and it's here that the business starts. Gently overhanging for the next two bolts, and then it gets steep. Move fast on big holds. After several bolts of steepness the angle eases again to gently overhanging, although the pump at this point may be strong.

Note that the anchors were moved higher after the

Jobsite Middle and Right 7 [[106696230]] 5.12a 8 Rib Braiser 5.12b 9 [[106458564]] 5.11c 10 [[107040311]] 5.12a 11 Reaching for the Capillary 5.12b 12 [[106703181]] 5.12a 13 [[110369453]] 5.12a 14 [[106169032]] 5.12b 14a [[106671800]] 5.13a 15 [[106670181]] 5.13c 16 [[113719133]] 5.12a 17 Project 18 [[106561851]] 5.11a 19 [[106122172]] 5.10b/c

was completed; the route continues up for five more bolts past the illustrated anchor position.

Cleaning this thing top-down is strenuous; see if you can sucker someone into toproping it.

Length

If you belay from the base of the route a 60m will probably work (although I've not tried it), but you can't see the climber above the roof and therefore many people belay down the hill before the tillite and in that case a 70m is required.

Location

Number 13 in this

Jobsite Middle and Right 7 [[106696230]] 5.12a 8 Rib Braiser 5.12b 9 [[106458564]] 5.11c 10 [[107040311]] 5.12a 11 Reaching for the Capillary 5.12b 12 [[106703181]] 5.12a 13 [[110369453]] 5.12a 14 [[106169032]] 5.12b 14a [[106671800]] 5.13a 15 [[106670181]] 5.13c 16 [[113719133]] 5.12a 17 Project 18 [[106561851]] 5.11a 19 [[106122172]] 5.10b/c

, the line starts about in the middle of the big roof area.

Protection

15 bolts plus anchors (1 Mussy hook and 1 ring). Shares the first four bolts with

Superman

which branches left.

Because it's so overhanging, and there are lots of bolts, it helps to use two foot slings on the first bolts and longish draws on the rest.