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Peak Mountain 3

Model Citizen

FA Chris Smith 5/16
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is a 2 pitch sport line. I would say that the climbing is not technical but there are some exposed moves. Tons of jugs, you just have to find them...

P1 is the scarier pitch, definitely heady. Belay ledge is an awkward hanging belay. But not terrible.

P2 is slabby with jugs, not so bad. Small belay ledge though; there was no room for the follower if the leader was on it. We had the leader scramble up this huge shelf to make room for the second.

Can be rappelled in one go with a 70 meter rope.

Currently there are pig-tail anchors at the top, and the eyebolts are a little too narrow to fit a big biner such as the rocklock. Come prepared with positrons or other smaller-type locking biners in order to go in direct to make the rappel/clean.

According to Ward Smith:

Do NOT belay at the top of the second pitch, it is not set up for it (the anchor is below the ledge). Lead the second pitch then have your second TR (or lead) it sport style.

Location

5 feet to the left of Crowd pleaser, starts just right of a base of a tree.

Protection

Bolts. P1 is 9 bolts to Bolt belay. P2 is 6 bolts to LO.