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Peak Mountain 3

Premature Exasperation

FA Michael Steele and Henry McMahon
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

The small roof just right of JG's chimney. Climb straight up to the tier and good horizontal below the small roof. Straight over this to a thin seam (small nut) in a slab. Up the slab past slopers to big horizontal (3-4in gear).

The Falcon guide lists a second pitch (not in the Steele guide), that looked grungy and overgrown. A better option is to traverse the horizontal left, joining JG at the groove.

Easily top roped by climbing JG's chimney and traversing right, or by scrambling up the weakness 20ft. to the right of the route.

Location

10 ft. right of JG

Protection

.5, #3 camalots, #4 nut