- Edit (TBD)
Description
I think the nature of the upper crux on this route may have changed, making it harder and more dangerous than it was previously.
The first crux (which comes within the first 20-30 feet or so) is fantastic and engaging mid-11 climbing. The middle third of this route is cruiser, which is nice because there is a runout involved.
Eventually you will reach a large ledge below the beautiful, yet dicey headwall. Sidepulls and underclings will get you through the first bolt past the ledge. Then you'll use a combination of underclings, crystally nubbins, and crimps to traverse past the second bolt towards the left arete, which you'll then take to the anchor.
There is a potential to "deck" onto the ledge system while trying to gain the second bolt on the headwall. The feet are noticeably worse here than elsewhere on the route and some of the features are suspect. Be careful about the holds you decide to use, as breakage could result in you hitting the ledge below.
Note: there is a large and obvious rock scar that I believe may have functioned as a useful foot when this was originally graded at 11c (as it is listed in Tod Anderson's guidebook). As it stands, I think this portion of the route may qualify as an easier 12, though I was unwilling to commit to the entire sequence on lead, and so I hesitate to assign it a more exact grade.
Location
It is on the South side of the Workman formation.
Protection
Uncertain. The 2018 guidebook says 4 bolts (typo), which means it's probably 14, plus a 2 bolt anchor.