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Peak Mountain 3

The Womb

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Description

There is a ravens nest inside the alcove just below the chimney which is usually occupied from March through June. If you choose to climb this route diring the times it’s occupied, the raven family will have you screaming “Nevermore” in no time!

Start in the left of two cracks that converge below the chimney above. The right side crack variation goes at the same grade but has a section of loose rock with bad protection. It is the more direct start below the chimney, but not as good quality.

The left variation and much more popular way starts up a splitter finger crack and climbs into a dihedral below a big roof. Work your way up under the roof and traverse out right under it to a big sandy ledge below the chimney. Now work your way up into the squeeze chimney (one BD #6 protects the chimney) and grovel your way to the top.

Location

Just right of Cajones Con Lodo in a dihedral which leads to a roof. Right variation is the corner just to the right.

Protection

Cams, 1 set .3” to 6”. Nuts, 1set.