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Peak Mountain 3

Mind Shaft Crack Middle

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Description

Although this route is short, it's a nice crack climb with excellent rock. Footholds on the face to the right are quite sparse, so effective jamming is crucial. The crux is doing exit moves when the crack thins down after the last hand jam. This route is shown in the D'Antonio guidebook, where it is given the very incorrect rating of 5.7+.

Location

This route is in the middle of the cliff. A splitter crack starts straight, angles right, and then straightens out at the top.

Protection

I used a medium stopper, and then a gold, red, and green Camalot. Bring gear for the anchor.