Othello

This is one of the farthest left of the routes located just around the corner and uphill (to the east) of the buttress with

Huston Crack

and

Aid Crack

at Cob Rock. This route climbs a slabby dihedral then tackles an impressive but easy 5 foot roof and finishes with perfect hands. There is no anchor, unfortunately, so you'll have to do a scary walkoff instead.

This is seldom climbed. Be careful of loose rock at mid-height.

Per

Tony B

:

Edit - a little research back in time with guidebooks has revealed that this climb is indeed Othello, and that the more recent books have simply misplaced the route.

This is a good stemming and jamming route with a small roof for crack climbing practice.

Start off from the ground in slightly junky rock, pull up into the corner on solid but tricky holds (10-, height may help), and get established in the corner. Stem and jam up several meters to get established under the roof, where a few 1" and under TCUs can be placed well with a long sling before battling the roof. Jam overhead and stem up to place a 2.5" cam (a yellow Camalot is OK) over the lip of the roof just above a solid chockstone, then stem and pull up on great hand jams and some incut holds to get established over the roof (crux, 10-). Continue onward to a nice ledge to set a trad belay.

To descend, scramble upward and SE, then down a ramp and south again to the ground... it is hard to explain, and might be best found from the ground first.

Eds. This is a combination of two submissions that are ultimately for the same route.

Per

Tony B

: this route is up and left of the main face of Cob Rock. Find the

Huston Crack

Buttress and go up and left around a corner to find 3 parallel cracks, from right to left,

South Crack

(5.6),

Indistinction

(5.8), and

Ms. Fanny Le Pump

(11+). These can be recognized by the anchor 10 meters off of the ground on the left two of these three. Around another small corner, up and left, is Othello. This climb starts in a shallow left-facing corner and goes to a small roof at 30' then onward to a large ledge.

Set of cams, heavy on #2 and #3.

Per

Tony B

: 1 rack of cams from 0.5-3" plus a few medium-large nuts + slings. The top is a trad anchor that needs a cordalette or similar to toprope. The descent requires a scramble off that can be tricky to find.