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Peak Mountain 3

The Scenic Route

FA 2017
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

A pleasant outing for those who enjoy the occasional brush-fighting, lichen scrubbing adventure. This route actually runs through both the Second Tier and the one above it (Third Tier?). It does NOT reach the top of the cliffs in this region, and doing so may require yet more technical climbing on dirty rock - I probably did something like that in the past twenty five years - so come with an outlook open to uncertainty if you choose to go upward. Walking down may not be possible, at least without a long, tortuous, and probably sketchy traverse, but descent by rappel off trees is easy enough.

P1 5.6 PG ~40': Make a rising leftward traverse on dirt-covered sloping ledges with a few offwidth moves along the way (TL climbed straight up a 20' vertical offwidth following this pitch; the 30 lb. block that trundled out of the crack nearly obliterated him as he did so). Once over that bit of technical difficulty, scramble up easy slabs to belay at any tree beneath the next cliff band.

P2 5.6 PG ~160': The cliff above is a short, very steep wall to the left. Scramble up easier rock on the right edge of the steep wall. Climb through a notch in a short headwall, reaching a sloping stance beneath the start of a large right-facing corner. Climb onto the outside edge of this corner, utilizing a good vertical crack to ride the border until the angle eases and other cracks are visible through the lichen grove to the left. Step over to join them and get to a cluttered stance in a large, wet cleft. Climb up low-angle open book to its top and step left to a nice blueberry covered ledge to belay.

Location

This route begins near the center of the cliff band, left of the nice, appealing crag. Look for stacked mega-blocks with a left-rising ramp beside a vertical off-width crack.

Protection

Couple of big pieces, long runners, and a standard Adk. rack should do. There are no fixed pieces, anchors, etc.


Routes in Second Tier


  1. 1
    The Scenic Route
    5.6
    Trad