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Peak Mountain 3

Thunderbolt

FA Mike Williams
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This fantastic, improbably steep route route ascends some more of the brilliant white stone of the Lakebed.

Start preclipped (I advise two bolts), and hop to a shelf. After a juggy traverse deposits you at the base of an arete, engage in a surprise crux section up this feature that ends with a wild drive-by dyno to snag a sharp-lipped jug. Traverse left here (Michael Boltin' branches right), clip bolt three, and then wander left over a bulge before coming back into the bolt line at bolt 4.

The next section looks blank, but fear not: a perfectly placed jug pocket allows relatively easy passage. Further steep hauling on good holds leads to one final big move, and then the anchors.

This route is a gem. Go do it.

Location

In the Beach area of Long Point. From the access gully, head climber's left for a couple of minutes until you see the steep buttress that holds Aryan Race, Michael Boltin' (13a), and Redneck Logic (13a). Aryan Race is the steepest leftmost line.

Protection

5 bolts + anchor.