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MapDescription
Despite some loose rock, this route climbs well. From the south side of the tower, climb the middle of the 3 obvious cracks up the face – the lesser of three evils. Pitch one begins with an OW crux to a neat chimney to a ledge. Crank up overhanging hands with a chossy start to another ledge and belay here. Pitch 2 continues up a hand crack with some less-than-stellar rock to a pod. Escape the pod where easier but very sandy climbing leads to a shoulder at the top. An anchor gear can be challenging to find. Rappel from a bolted anchor back south. A single 70M rope BARELY reaches the starting ledge with a VERY extended anchor. Tie knots! Or take two ropes.
Location
South Face.
Protection
Double set, single BD C4 #5 & 6
Routes in Termite Tower
- 1Lesser of Three Evils5.10Trad