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Peak Mountain 3

The One Armed Swordsman

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Description

This route goes up a 5.7 crack with hand jams to a chickenwing, with an easy topout on a sloping ledge. The anchor I used was the small bush growing out of the wall on the right backed up by myself as a meat anchor. It might be wise to inspect the blocks on the left for safety, then possibly sling them for the anchor.

Location

Go south from the base of Choss Boss Crag (from the base of the Arete of Regret route) from under the big fir tree. Move up the short scree slide and you'll come to a nice granite crag of high quality. Head into the chute to the right between this high quality crag and Choss Boss Crag, and you'll see the route on the left.

Protection

Typical trad rack, with a handful of #3 Camalots and one or two #4's. Bring some webbing and a link for the anchor.