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Peak Mountain 3

South Face

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Description

This is the class 3-4 route up the solid south ramp of Red Mountain. Most ascents are done via the west side of the south ridge, which is a much more class 2 - scrambly affair, but this involves the most solid rock found on the peak in several easy, enjoyable class 3 pitches. Most climbers will do this entirely unroped as the exposure is not great, or simply rope up when necessary. Belay spots can be found on the sides of the ridge with trees, although how useful they can be is yet to be seen.

Hike the PCT from the Snoqualmie Pass north trailhead until it reaches the Commonwealth Creek trail. Hike this for about 2 miles until the peak is visible; occasionally this will bring you too far to the west. Simply traverse on heather over the ridge and perhaps downslope until you reach the solid, low-angle, bright red rock gully (class 3, no gear required, 2 pitches). Ascend until you pop over a small ridge to the main gully below the summit. Continue ascending this until the summit section becomes steep and roofy overhead. Then move left onto the hiking finish on the west side of the south ridge. Descend via the scrambling class-2 hiking route on the west.

Alternatively, continue on the steep summit block directly; class 4 or low 5. Requires rope, at least, due to exposure. Next summer I'll come back and do it for real.

Location

You'll pop out of trees on the flank of Red eventually, but this may bring you too far west. If you reach Red Mountain Pond, you've gone too far.

Protection

No gear needed in general. Some parts of the descent could be rappelled from trees; webbing and rap rings required.


Routes in Red Mountain


  1. 1
    South Face
    4th
    Trad