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MapDescription
This route hits you right off the ground with a stout boulder problem, which is reachy from bolt 1 to 2 to get to the right hand pocket. Power your way past this first bulge, and crawl into a no-hands rest up and left in the shallow, right-facing corner. You get a major rest here, but it's not over until you climb through the thin, back-to-back 5.12 sequences towards the top.
This route is a fun 12c if you aid past the first crux and start in the no-hands rest that is just left of the 5th bolt.
Condition update: the opening crux is a bit harder now that a hold has broken
Location
Start under the short, overhanging bulge just right of
Evil Empire
.
Protection
12 bolts, 2-bolt anchor
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- 11The Honeymoon Is Over5.13cSport