YQ

This is a new second pitch to the Cryogenic Corner, stepping right off the belay ledge along a ramp into the fairly friable, white pegmatite. This route can be led as one long pitch, clipping the bolted belay with a long sling for gear, or broken into two pitches. If you do it in one pitch, use a 70-meter rope to get back to the ground from the chains atop the wall.

Step right from the belay on an easy ramp which quickly peters out. A bomber nut and a so-so blue TCU get you around the bulge into a faint corner with a good layback horn. Pump in some gear at waist level, fish in a sideways RP behind the horn and do the crux. Your next piece is about fifteen feet up in a good crack up and right. Finish in a small dihedral and step left onto easy ground atop Cryogenics, finishing at the chain anchors.

This route was done as a headpoint with all but the RP placed on lead. It can easily be toproped off the Cryogenics anchors. Though the gear seems good, it is in pegmatite. Beware flaky footholds and the possibility of a giant penduluming screamer down into the Cryogenics corner should the gear fail.

Standard hand-and-finger sized gear get you up the Cryogenic corner. Brings stoppers, RP's, Metolius grey, purple and blue (1, O and 00) and a green Camalot for the crux pitch, as well as a few extra TCU's and a hand-sized piece for the upper bit.