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Peak Mountain 3

Shorty's Nightmare

FA Dan Mullens
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Description

This climb doesn't get any stars in the guidebook and also states that it would be a nightmare to fall before the second bolt. I would disagree with both.

If the rock were a little more solid near the first bolt, then I would give it even another star.

The start is pretty casual and leads to a long, but not too hard pull, to get to the second bolt.

Getting to the third bolt is one of the funniest moves on the entire climb. A dynamic move off a small crimper/pocket to a jug pocket.

The whole climb is quite steep and the feet are poor when you near the anchors which are quite a thrill to clip if you're pumped.

Location

3rd route from the left side of Pocket Rocks.

Protection

3 bolts and anchors.