- Edit (TBD)
Description
Per
EJM
: this line is approximately 140 feet in length. With rope stretch, an 80 meter rope will just get you to the ground if your belayer steps into the starting alcove. TIE A KNOT.
Once established on the face, after the 2nd bolt, this route is incredibly sustained. I thought there were two distinct cruxes- a 12c section getting from bolts 3 to 4, and a 12b section just past the 11th bolt. While there are a few areas of respite in which to shake out your calves, the majority of the climbing never falls much below 11+/12-.
This is a superb route, has great stone, is super sustained for 140', and strong toes and calves would be a huge asset.
Location
Per
EJM
: this is located on the west face of Fin 3, just right of the beautiful dihedral of
V3
.
This is between
V3
and
Moonlight Drive
.
Protection
This is protected by 12 bolts. There are 2 anchor bolts.
Per
EJM
: there are 13 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. A #3 Camalot with a runner placed between bolts 1&2 is wise. If you were to slip or botch clipping the 2nd bolt, you'd certainly hit the ground from 30+ feet.
Routes in Cadillac Crag
- 9[Redacted]5.12dSport