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Description
Remote adventure climbing for choss lovers:
The climb starts 15 feet below a railroad spike on a scree pile. Scramble up to the first railroad spike and then traverse right with good hand holds until you see the obvious second railroad spike above you.
Going up yields a railroad spike and a bolt. Once you pass both you'll gain a nice depression/pocket which makes for a good resting stance. Place a piece and traverse back left where the rock type changes. As you traverse to it you will find small solution pockets to place a small 00 metloius micro cam or similar.
Climb up past the old Charlet Moser Piton to a 2 bolt anchor. The second pitch is class 3/4 and ends at a bush. New webbing and a rapide are recommended for descent if you leave the first pitch anchor.
Protection
Small cams up to a red BD #1. Specific pieces very helpful to the route include green .75 BD cam for a pocket at the first traverse, medium offset (metolius red/orange) for a pocket at the nice stance, then a 00 grey metolius cam for a solution pocket during the traverse.
Tricams would be wonderful for this climb and add a lot of security.
Routes in PianoBox Prospect
- 1Rail Spike5.6Trad