Thin Slabs / Thin Slabs Direct

The third pitch direct variation of this mind-boggling route will have you wondering about Gunks ratings: how can an exposed, overhanging, pumpy hand traverse, with so-so hands and poor feet, only be rated 5.7+? It will feel like 5.9 to the first-time visitor, but the adrenaline rush and pump factor will leave you thrilled when you finish.

To approach, use the new trail for Middle Earth. If you get to the Arrow access trail, at an open area by white rocks, you've gone too far.

At the cliff, head right and look for a smooth face with 3 bolts; this is the route Sente. Thin Slabs starts in a crack 5' right of Sente; Thin Slabs Direct starts in a right-angling crack 10' farther right.

P1 (Direct): Climb the right-angling thin crack with a bouldery start. After the crack peters out, continue up and left towards the bolted rap station. 5.7+, 100'.

P1 (original): Climb the crack on the left, up a face past a bolt, and continue up to the big tree. 5.6R, 90'.

P2: Climb an overhang on the right, continue to a ledge, and climb a left-facing corner to another tree with rap slings. 5.5, 60'.

For the Direct finish, move the belay to a tree about 10' to the right, where you'll be in a good spot for the wild third pitch.

P3 (Direct): Climb up a left-facing corner toward the huge roof. Take a deep breath and commit to the exposed, pumpy traverse to the right. Several pins mark the way - it's a good idea to back them up, even though it's pumpy. Exit right onto the arete (crux), and breathe a sigh of relief. Gather your marbles, and continue up the face to a tree with rap slings. "5.7+" (Gunks sandbag rating), 70'.

P3 (original): If you're not up for the excitement of the Direct finish, you can climb a chimney in a large left-facing corner on the left, and traverse right to the rap tree. 5.5, 60'.

Descent: 3 rappels from trees with slings and rings with one 60m rope. It's also easy to walk just a bit north (right) to the bolted rappel line at Arrow.

Standard Rack. Bring some small wired nuts for the first pitch and some Screamers for the old pins on the third pitch.