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Peak Mountain 3

Hyde and Hide

FA Paul Webber and Spencer Lachman
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

A fun line up a corner system and a curving finger crack on an open face. 2, 100ft pitches. Could be combined into one long, awesome pitch if you stretched a 70m, but you might be short on the rappel.

P1: Climb the corner system originating at the base of the wall until it widens to a belay stance. Throw some finger sized pieces in for a belay where the P2 curved finger crack begins. Takes a variety of gear from .2 - 4. The bottom is a little wide and you can bump a 4 along with you for a ways but then the crack narrows and it's fingers + slabby feet to the belay. Goes about 10a/b.

P2: Take off up the right leaning finger crack nearest the corner system you just climbed. You probably made your belay in the very crack system and now need to put your foot in the space that orange Metolius is occupying...deal with that, then continue upward. Crack becomes thin fingers and tips as it joins a vertical crack system and nears the roof. Roof takes two 3's and uses the crack splitting the roof, some desperate smearing, and foot jams to move around the bulge. The fingers goes at 10b/c. The roof about 10+...it is difficult to compare to the rest of the climb but really exciting ; pumpy, short, and allows you to be creative.

Descent: Double rope rap...would stretch a 70. Once atop the spire, scramble down onto the ledge between you and the wall to your north. Rappel into the large gully towards the main Panther Peak formation.

Location

When viewing the face of Panther Peak, locate the sub-peak to the right. Route is about 75ft uphill on the south-east side  of the formation (right side if viewing the face which faces the valley). Look for a large clean slab of white granite below a big roof with the P2 finger crack arching through the center. A right facing corner beneath the clean face forms the starting corner system.

Approach like you would to Panther Peak until reaching the saddle where it is recommended you drop bags. From here you can drop down to the base of the crags and traverse though dense bushes until you locate the sub peak formation to the south east of Panther Peak and head uphill around the far corner.

OR... sidehill behind Panther Peak until reaching the gully between the Panther formation and the sub-peak. Continue side hilling around the back of the sub-peak and drop down on the south-east side of the formation. Route will be on the right toward the bottom.

Protection

Standard rack. Triples in .3 and .4 would make the finger crack feel super secure but nuts work too.