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Peak Mountain 3

Gunsmoke

FA Charlie Fowler & Jack Roberts
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is one of the best cracks anywhere in the desert. 150 feet of perfect hands to a thin crux just below the anchor. The route is long and sustained but there is a perfect rest below the crux moves. This is a good lead for those looking to break into 5.11 desert routes.

Gunsmoke is obvious from the parking area, it is the furthest left of three cracks on the broad face at the top of the hill. Start atop a ledge about 10 feet off the ground. Jam up and left in a good hand crack then move straight up following the crack which thins slightly (#1 Camalots). Continue in perfect hands for about 100 feet to a rest just below the crux. Plug in a couple of small cams (0.75 and 0.5) and fire through the bulge with good finger locks to a three bolt anchor.

Two ropes are necessary if climbing from the ground and rapelling. The route can be done on a single 70M if starting on the boulder. Knot the end!

Protection

#0.5 to 3 Camalots, extra #1s and many #2s #0.75 for the crux.