- Edit (TBD)
Description
start at the boulder in the hallway, and enjoy the straightforward, bomber cam placements in the first 30 feet, because it gets trickier. when your right foot is on the left side of the big roof (the roof onto which sidewinder traverses from the right), you will be able to peek over and see hardman Joe T (or somebody's) rusty old pin. You could go right here or climb up a bit and then head over when your feet are just above the pin. sling stuff extra long in this area. after numerous placements that seem either tiny or dubious or both, you will arrive at the big crack. you will want a #5 camalot. You can leave the offwidth at the horizontal, where you will encounter the last bolt of sidewinder and then the sidewinder chains. if continuing up the offwidth, you will perhaps want a #6, and I didn't see any chains up there, but I did see chossy looking rock and opportunities for groveling and/or heroics
Location
right of lipstick, left of sidewinder. start on the scramble up the boulder you use to reach sidewinder, and go upwards, trending side to side as needed. if your first piece is a bomber #2 and your second piece is a glorious orange metolious, you are in the right spot.
Protection
singles to #2, doubles from micro to .75, lots of long runners, lots of tiny nuts