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Peak Mountain 3

Black Magic Panties

FA NIck Nordbloom, Jenni Stone, Danny Rider - 1988
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

BMP climbs the face between the Hop Route and Sensuous Mortician. Begin by bouldering up the face and placing pro. This is followed by a long stretch without reliable pro and potential for decking, however the climbing is easy. Beyond this pro is good but spaced, and one must wander a bit to find it and also the path of least resistance.

Before reaching the roof, clip two bolts as you make your way up a slick face, then pull the roof on jugs just right of the obvious crack. Build an anchor above or traverse left to the Hop Route.

Protection

Single run of cams and wires. 70 or 80 meter cord useful.