Trip Itch

This is a new [variation] of

Tryptich

called Trip Itch that has two independent pitches of climbing up overhanging flakes and jams. Some loose flakes are still present, but the climb can be done without disturbing them.

To the far right of the Xanadu area, and just left of a rotten gully, is the climb

Tryptich

. Locate

Xanadu

, a hanging dihedral with a small crack and a small "Dr. [Zeuss]" looking tree growing out of it 60 feet up. The next major crack system to the right (30' north) is the start of

Tryptich

. This is also the start of the more serious routes,

Tanqueray

, and

Kubla Khan

.

Tryptich

is a nice climb, although it is not a standout like the area favorites, it is unique in character and is one to think about doing "as long as you are there."

Follow the first 2 pitches of

Tryptich

, which can be run into a single pitch if desired.

1. Climb up a crack and dihedral system with mostly good protection and jams (5.6) to a slot with a medium sized tree growing out of it. A fixed anchor is intermittently present on the tree. Belaying in this nook might avoid a belay on the ledge, which has some loose rock. It is also possible to move on to the ledge and up and left to a decent crack for the belay.

2. The second pitch moves up the previously mentioned crack under a small roof, then out right and up again to a huge roof. This second roof is negotiated out up and right again, traversing under the roof with your feet on a slab and cams of various sizes placed overhead in the crack between the roof and the main wall. This is essentially an undercling layback onto the slab for feet, and is not nearly as hard as it may appear, at 5.8+. A large tree and a reasonable stance are to be had for a belay at the right hand end of the roof.

The new climbing of Trip Itch begins on pitch #3.

3. To climb

Tryptich

, you would traverse far left to the bottom of an arching crack and then to the first obvious, right-facing dihedral. Instead, take a more direct variation- Move only slightly left and up to the first crack. Instead of heading for the big dihedral and roof, tackle a series of handcracks between flakes up and onwards to a tree just up and right of the belay tree mentioned on the original route (5.10b). There are a few rocks in the area that it would be best not to pull on to reach a belay tree, then scramble up and left to the top of the wall. Going far left from here takes a climber into very loose and lichenous territory and is not recommended.

The descent for either variation is to hike northwest and come down the Shirt Tail Peak/Rincon gully, about 80 meters away, down that gully and back around S/SE to the base.

A standard Eldo rack.