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Peak Mountain 3

Sleep Deprivation

FA Vaino Kodas & Bob D'Antonio
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Fifteen feet right of the Boulder Quartz System is a short 20-foot hand crack leading to a large ledge with a clean fifty-foot slab above. This is the start of Sominex and Sleep Deprivation.

P1. Climb the crack using small-to-medium gear gaining the ledge after twenty-five feet. Belay at a 2-bolt anchor. You can avoid this pitch by scrambling in from the right (see photo).

P2. Climb past two bolts on the right to reach a horizontal crack (crux). Continue up past 4 bolts at the right side of the face and move back left to the anchor of Sominex. Great slab climbing on excellent rock.

Protection

Small-to-medium gear if you do the crack on the first pitch; six bolts for the second pitch. 2-bolt anchors at the end of both pitches.