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Peak Mountain 3

Crossing the Milky Way

FA Brandon Thau, Tom Slater (2011, GU)
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

"One of the best long, easy routes in the area" The entire climb trends left, so if you're looking up to find bolts or the route, look left.

P1 - 5.7 - 45m: 2 bolts, gear, gear belay. Start at the extreme right edge of a ledge. Climb a left-slanting seam (feet) to a bolt at the top of the seam. Then climb over bulges to a small pocket at the base of the first large water runnel (.75") then left to a bolt and belay at the bottom of the obvious dihedral.

P2 - 5.8 -45m: 2 bolts, gear, 2-bolt anchor. Climb the dihedral (crux), placing small gear and exit it on bomber knob handholds. Climb up a thin runnel past two bolts to the anchor.

P3 - 5.7 - 60m: 1 bolt, gear, knob slings, 2-bolt anchor. Climb the left-slanting crack to a face that grows more and more featured with knobs to anchor on ledge. 1 good knob to sling at beginning of crack, which widens to take bigger gear as you continue upwards. At the top of the pitch, move left sooner rather than later to avoid an exposed traverse to the anchor.

P4 - 5.6 - 60m: knob slings, gear, gear anchor. Up and left to skyline through knobs to a gear anchor in flake below summit blocks. Glorious climbing, very secure.

Walk off left marked by cairns

Protection

Single rack, alpine draws and plenty of slings for knobs. Not a ton of nut placements.