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MapGandalf
Description
A fun little climb that never gets done. Definitely feels harder than John's Stand Up, but I'm pretty good at crimps so that probably helps. Stand start same as JSU, in the slopiest part of the crack used on Hobbit Hole. Grab a decent LH gas tone and scrunch your feet to the crack. Stand up in the crack, but rather than going straight up to the jug rail, move straight up. Grab a tiny right hand crimp and gun for a good sidepull. Cross over to a mossy edge and grab the juggy arete. Follow the arete to the lip and top out same as Hobbit Hole. It can also be done as a sit start (starting same as Hobbit Hole), which bumps it up to about v6-.
Location
Start same as John's Stand Up, but move right on bad crimps before gaining the juggy arete.
Protection
A few pads
Routes in The Zoo
- 24GandalfV4-Bouldering