Expeliarmus

This is a very sustained techy face. There are no 5.12 moves, but there are not many under 5.11 either. It is probably only .11+ but very continuous. It has good movement on okay rock that should clean up with more traffic. We had an 80m rope, and I reached the anchors at the halfway mark, but the route angles quite a bit, and the ground rises to the right, so you should be able to get down with a 70m. Your belayer may need to scramble up to the ledge below the first bolt though. Be sure to knot the ends!

Scramble up to the ledge below the first bulge, and clip a bolt. Pull the bulge, then angle up and right then back left to another ledge. Clip a bolt, pull another bulge, and diagonal right under a third bulge to the base of a water groove. Head up the groove to a stance on a pedestal, take a well deserved rest, then make the final crux moves up and right to a bolt, and head up to the anchors.

Scramble up to a ledge on the right side of the buttress half way between

Out of Time

and

Wingardium Leviosa

.

15 bolts. A couple alpine draws and three 30cm slings will help a lot with rope drag.