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Peak Mountain 3

Much Too Fist

FA an ascent has been made, DCuster & SRuff, July 2018
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

The core of this climb is 50’ of #3 camalot crack in a mighty flake of impeccable rock; 40’ of approach climbing before the business and 20’ of low angle slab/crack to exit. The difficulty will depend on hand size; Much Too Fist is slightly harder than Super Crack of the Desert at Indian Creek. The business on Much Too Fist starts in slightly overhanging, #4=>#3 camalot territory; pulling out of the steep bit might also deserve a #4. Then just keep appendages stuffed in the crack, progress in an upward fashion, plug in #3s, enjoy.

Descent: Still a work in progress; we rappelled with double 60 m ropes.

Location

In or just right of an obvious inside corner. The left (direct) start is 5.10; the chimney or wide crack around further right starts are easier.

Protection

Lots of (I had 3; would have liked 4 or 5…) #3 camalots; a few #4 camalots; 1x fingers=>hands would probably suffice for the start, the slab above, and an anchor.


Routes in Golden Years