Fear and Loathing

This elegant route is ten feet left of 5.11 crack. The start is 20 feet of unprotected slab to the first bolt. After the fifth bolt, fingertip traverse climber's left past a short vertical crack that takes gear, then continue left (crux) until you can reach the golf ball and pull the roof. 5.10, with a good head for runout slab. (I did the original route with Coach, Layne Kopishka, and got his permission to straighten it out before he died. I put the lower bolts in on lead to honor Coach's boldness.)

Use the same start as

5.11 Crack

, atop the clamshell boulder.

Quick draws and a light rack with smaller pieces.