The Creeksmythe

The Creeksmythe (pronounced creeksmith) was a route first envisioned by Pat Kingsbury 10 years ago. A king line featuring unlikely face climbing which leads into a slowly widening crack starting as tips and finishing with 20 feet of 511- OW climbing guarding the anchor. We weren’t initially prepared to do battle with this line. But Jason had the ball nuts, Chad had some pins and hooks in his truck, Pat had the bolts and a neighboring party had a #5 which they loaned us. Bolts 2-5 were drilled on lead using aid tactics and the 1st and 6th were added once free climbing sequences were sorted out.

The name Creeksmythe references the art of doing ground-up new-age routes in Indian Creek but is also a subtle reference to my good friend Nolan Smythe who passed away last year. He always preferred the new-age Creek routes and I’m certain this would have been one of his favorites.

Please respect the sandstone and don’t climb this route after rain. A couple intermediate holds may crumble but the key holds will stay. I won’t be surprised if this thing settles into being solid 5.13 with some traffic.

Look for the plaque just left of International Affair. You’ll spot the bolts leading into a splitter up high.

6 draws. 000, double .4’s, single rack .5 - #5, optional extra .5 and .75, 70 meter rope