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Peak Mountain 3

Climb of the Anonymous Coward (Var)

FA Matt Juth, 1/04
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

I was asked about this variation the other day, so I am adding this for the benefit of others. This is not an independent line but merely a combination of P2 of

Life After James

, and P2 of

Telegraph Road

. The purpose of this climb is to toprope the crux pitch of

Telegraph Road

(or the whole thing) if desired. It is a a lot of fun, if you have some time to kill, and is a direct line.

Climb past the crimpy P2 crux of

Life After James

10+/11- (height-dependent) clipping the first three bolts. Keep climbing in a straight line to join

Telegraph Road

just past the crux. This is a little run out but moderate. The bolt on

Telegraph Road

is visible from the belay but can be concealed a little bit when doing this variation. Just remember where it is to avoid fretting.

Finish with the final four bolts of

Telegraph Road

. For me, the crux is the last 15 feet which get your attention at 5.10.

From the anchor, you can rap to either the belay on

Life After James

or the P1 anchors of

Telegraph Road

. This sets up a good TR.

Protection

7 draws. A small nut can be fiddled in at an overlap if desired. Rapping from 2 bolts with rings at the top will you to a two bolt anchor at the top of Telegraph's P1.