- Edit (TBD)
Description
This route protected well but was spicy.
30' below the wide crack, find a left-facing corner with a small overhang on theleft. Climb the arete then crack, and trend left at the top of the wing. At the base of the chimney, find gear, then squeeze up. The second flake on right takes small nuts and cams in the back. Near top of chimney, break out on the right face, go up 20' until below an overhang, go left through cracks, and continue to top with good pro.
Location
This is up and above Sweet Loaf. After doing a route on The Sentinel, look right, West, up the hill, and spy a 30' high, chest-wide chimney.
Protection
A standard rack cams to a #4 with doubles of Camalot #4 black, 1 red, 1 set Wild Country Rocks, 1 set small TCUs, RPs, 15 shoulder-length QD slings, and biners. Face right side in when in the chimney.
Routes in Sweat Loaf aka Big Dogs
- 1Walking on Paper5.9+Trad