Square Top – Southwest Face Crack

Square Top defines the eastern walls that tower over Sulphur Canyon. The hike is long, steep and obnoxious and the climbing is mediocre. However, the most redeeming quality of the climb is the outstanding, sobering views of the southern Swell.

Park in a wash along the Reds Canyon Road south-southeast of the summit of Square Top (38.7676, -110.8920). Hike east and then north up the wash as you circumnavigate the eastern flanks of the peak. When you're on the northeastern side of the peak, locate and scramble up a talus/slab gully to Square Top's north ridge. Fun, easy scrambling/hiking leads to the summit plateau before the final “square.” Near the top, please be mindful of cryptobiotic soil. Expect ~1-1.5 hour approach.

Walk around to the southwest side of the “square” and locate the only reasonable angling crack to the summit. Sandy, crumbly slab climbing (2 bolts), leads to a roof. Pull the roof, without pulling too many handholds off (crux) and continue up easier ground to the top (1 more bolt).

It should be noted that the bolt hardware is sketchy (despite FA in 2017?). The bolts are 2 inch long Hilti EZ screws and can easily be unscrewed by hand. Use caution!

Nuts, Single Rack BD C4 #0.75-3. Optional #5 for the top.