- Edit (TBD)
Description
This route is incredible! It was put up by Cimbing Master Jeff Jackson. Its got to be one of the best 5.12s in the entire Crystal River Valley. The rock is solid and climbing fantastic. (Yes, the hang under it in the Gash is still poor, but efforts are being made to stabilize the belay areas.)
Start uphill just left of
110688805
and 30 Meters from Meatballs. Clip the first two bolts of 30 Meters of Meatballs, and then trend left a few bolts in overhanging, neatly featured rock. You are aiming for a 2-3 inch crack just above you. Hand and fist jam through crack with an exciting little runout to less than vertical rock. You will then enter the crux headwall that is gently overhanging. The crux is spicy just before the last bolt. Save a little gas for the final couple moves to the anchors.
Location
This is left of
Easy Spankin'
and 30 Meters of Meatballs.
Protection
12 bolts.