Wilson

Climbing the route down low, we encountered three 60's era fixed pitons. An original Chouinard Lost Arrow came right out when I went to clip it and I almost dropped it. Despite the surface rust, it was very likely still as strong as the day it was forged.

I discussed the find with legendary climber/alpinist Ted Wilson (former SLC Mayor whose daughter Jenny Wilson is the current Salt Lake County Mayor....both are former US Senate candidates). He didn't immediately recall climbing on the Millie Tower 12 crag, though he definitely remembered pounding in a few pins on the wall now known to climbers as the Brighton Frighton Wall. See pages 194-195 in the Ruckman Guidebook. Being pretty sure that whoever did drive the pitons into this wall escaped short of the "headwall" into the bushes out right, we cleaned out the steep final challenging moves in the corner.

Pitch #1: A forgiving mantle step (protected by a bolt) yields access to a slab that leads to the steeper bit. Very unique patina featured granite. Pass by the ancient pitons to a bulge. Stay left (The Alpenbockers most likely went right here and off) and ascend a tilting thin corner past two bolts to the two bolt belay. 5.10b/c, 20m, 4 bolts.

If setting up a top rope, consider using long slings to extend the anchor over an edge. Lowering or TRing over this edge may damage your rope or worse. Therefore, rappelling the route is strongly recommended.

This is located far right on the Millie Tower 12 Crag.

We also found a little toy doll with "big hair" under the chairlift. We positioned it below a little alcove to demarcate the start of the route:).

QDs and small selection of Camalots to #1. As this was a harder variation and detour of a long forgotten Alpenbock (as related by Mayor Ted Wilson) route, we left the pitons in situ for your viewing amusement as well.

A few small Camalots should be sufficient to adequately protect the route.