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Description
P1
A tricky, difficult start that requires weaving a bit to keep it in the .10 range. Stemming off of the trees should make the start easier.
After the second bolt the difficulty eases considerably; follow the trough to the chains. 5.10c.
P2
A bouldery bit after the first bolt leads to large cobbles and easier climbing to finish out the pitch. 5.10d.
P3
Fairly mellow climbing on huge holds with one or two steep moves (but still using large holds). 5.7
P4
After jumping the narrow chasm from the top of the third pitch walk over to the base of the left tower near some bushes on the right. The bolts are a bit hard to spot initially.
Start up on fairly low-angle choss (with moss) and get up into some muddy-looking conglomerate. The angle steepens here and the climbing gets interesting. Sometimes the next bolt is hard to see; have faith that it's there and look around.
The top out onto the tower is quite fun and a most unlikely hold eases the transition.
Enjoy the view and the high class summit register. 5.11a.
Location
Just past
Rock Island
there is a large pullout on the left with a bathroom. Park here and walk up the road a hundred feet or so.
Walk up the draw to the approach area for
The Trash Compactor
. At the base of the wall turn right and bushwhack along the base for a couple of hundred feet.
You'll eventually come to a line of bolts with two medium-sized trees a few feet from the wall.
Protection
16 total draws. Helmet recommended.