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Peak Mountain 3

East Rib

FA Chris Hirsch & Jerry Wingenter (Ground-up) 6/16
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Ascends the long arcing arete left of 'The Ramshackler'.

  1. 5.9- 100 Start the same as Ramshackler; up the easiest path above a pile of boulders. Head left to arete on the ramp below roof. Then straight up into the flared chimney/OW. Protection is hard to find before gaining the OW. Build anchor at top of wide crack (semi-hanging belay) unless you can find a better spot.

  2. 5.8+ 100' Continue up rib through a slab crux protected by thin gear. Then becomes lower angle to the top. Enjoy the exposure! Build anchor. Rap station is in notch below summit.

Location

Route climbs the furthest E point of the Mystery Spires. Approach from the N on hiker's trail. Single 80m rope barely makes the rap to the ground.

Protection

Gear up to BD #4, Nuts/RPs No bolts Two bolt rap station with chain.